Setting Firefox Agar Tidak Boros Memory

24 Jan 2008 0 komentar
Dalam firefox terdapat bug boros memory dimana, saat kita minimize firefox kita maka permintaan akan memory berkurang , tetapi saat maximize lagi firefox akan makan memory besar bahkan dua kali lipat.

Masalah ini bisa menyebabkan komputer anda Hang. untuk mengatasi ini ada caranya yaitu :

  1. Buka firefox anda.
  2. pada Address bar ketik about:config
  3. Right Click di page itu lalu pilih new->Boolean
  4. Muncul popup lalu ketik config.trim_on_minimize , tekan Enter
  5. Lalu pilih True, tekan Enter

Restart your Firefox.

Restart Windows Tanpa Restart Komputer

0 komentar
Kadangkala kita saat install program atau game , perlu restart dulu setelah install, padahal kalau untuk restart tentu memerlukan waktu yang lama dan kadang males , apalagi banyak pekerjaan yang belum di save.

Rata- rata 30 detik untuk PC kita sendiri melakukan proses boot ( BIOS ) ditambah lagi beberapa detik untuk windows sendiri itu booting.

Nah ada caranya waktu anda mengeksekusi perintah Restart, tahan tombol Shift

Mencari File-File Dengan Google Search

0 komentar
Mungkin ada kalanya kita pengen mencari file yang kita inginkan baik berupa movie ( wmv dll ) dan Music ( mp3 ) atau extension file lainnya.

Dalam google tinggal kita ketik sesuai dengan extension yang kita inginkan.

inurl:pdf -> untuk cari khusus PDF
inurl:avi|mpg|wmv|rm -> Cari Video dengan extension type avi,mpg,wmv, dan rm

Begitu seterusnya. Selamat Mencoba :)

PC Media Antivirus (PCMAV) 1.0 RC18

1 komentar
PC Media Antivirus (PCMAV) 1.0 RC18

Copyright (c) 2007 Majalah PC Media
A member of Pinpoint Publications

Ternyata PC Media Antivirus RC 18 dah keluar, Antivirus ini terus mengupadte kemampuannya. Lebih lengkap tentang fitur baru yang ditambahkan, bisa anda baca di file readme.txt.

Download PCMAV-RC-18.

Mencegah Virus masuk dari Flash

1 komentar

Salah satu pencegahan agar komputer tdk tertular virus adalah dg mencegah tereksekusinya file virus. Untuk melakukannya, kita dapat memakai salah satu fitur di Windows XP yaitu Software Restriction.

Adapun langkah-langkahnya adalah sebagai berikut:

  1. Pilih Start-Control Panel
  2. Pilih Administrative Tools-Local Security Setting
  3. Klik kanan di Software Restriction Policies, lalu pilih Create new Policies
  4. Kemudian klik kanan di Additional Rule, dan pilih New Path Rule.
  5. Di Kolom Path, masukkan drive dimana aplikasi di dalamnya tidak dapat dieksekusi. Karena kebanyakan malware menular dari flash disk, sebaiknya ketik drive di mana flash disk berada. Misalnya, jika flash disk ada di drive D maka ketikkan D:\
  6. Di Security Level pilih Disallowed
  7. Pilih OK dan restart komputer.

Sumber :

http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/virologi

Cek Billing Speedy dengan Cepat

0 komentar

Biasanya kalau kita ngecek billing speedy dengan cara biasa, kita akan dibawa pada ritual berikut:

  1. Buka browser
  2. Buka www.telkomspeedy.com
  3. Klik tanpa flash atau dengan flash
  4. Isikan Username speedy berikut password
  5. Baru keluar besaran penggunaan speedy secara global.
  6. Jika ingin tagihan detail, masih harus klik Info Usage & Billing.
Gimana?? Bosen kan?? Kan bisa pake speedy allert? Iya, jika anda suka. Kalo saya terus terang gak suka, soalnya banyak menggangu, saat kita pake komputer dan gak connect ke internet. speedy allert nya suka muncul dalam jangka waktu tertentu. Ganggu banget.

Berikut cara cepatnya.
  1. Klik kanan desktop
  2. klik new shortcut
  3. pada box yang muncul isikan https://portal.telkomspeedy.com/index.php?act=infousage
  4. Klik Next, Lalu Isikan Cek Billing Speedy sebagai nama shortcut atau terserah.
  5. Klik Finish.
Ok, Sekarang waktunya ngecek.
  1. Klik dobel shortcut Cek Billing Speedy.
  2. Jika muncul security allert, jawab Yes saja.
  3. Isikan Nomor speedy yang 12 digit itu, berikut password.
  4. Anda bisa lihat hasilnya sekarang.
Semoga ada gunanya.

Koleksi Tulisan Onno W. Purbo

0 komentar
Beruntung kita bangsa Indonesia, memiliki seorang pakar informatika seperti kang onno (begitu dia biasa dipanggil). Bagaimana tidak, demi untuk memajukan rakyat indonesia, agar semuanya bisa melek internet dan teknologi informasi dan komunikasi pada umumnya, dia membagi-bagikan ilmunya (tulisan-tulisannya) kepada siapapun warga Indonesia bahkan warga lain di dunia ini dengan gratis tiss, tak berbayar. Lisensi yang beliau berikan adalah Copyleft bukan Copyright.

Semoga Bangsa kita menjadi bangsa yang melek IT dan amal beliau dan orang-orang yang seperti beliau diterima oleh Allah SWT. Klik di sini untuk meluncur ke perpustakaan kang onno.

Fujitsu FDX340 BUS Powered USB Modem

19 Jan 2008 0 komentar

Netgear DG814 4 Port DSL Modem

1 komentar

Fujitsu FDX340 BUS Powered USB Modem

0 komentar

Fujitsu FDX310 BUS Powered USB Modem

0 komentar

D-Link 200 USB DSL (MAC)

0 komentar

Aztech User Manual DSL 605EU

18 Jan 2008 0 komentar

Aztech User Manual DSL 605ER

0 komentar

Aztech User Manual DSL 605E

0 komentar

DynaLink RTA 770 W Quick Setup Guide

0 komentar

ProLink Hurricane 9000 Wireless

0 komentar

Alcatel ADSL 1000 User Guide

0 komentar

OvisLink Air Live 8064 ARM

15 Jan 2008 0 komentar

ADSL Tecom GW 2000

0 komentar

ADSL Tecom AR 4031

0 komentar

ADSL Tecom AR 1031

0 komentar

ADSL Tecom AR 4021

0 komentar

ADSL Speed Touch 510V5 UserGuide

0 komentar

ADSL Comtrend CT 536+

0 komentar

ADSL Prolink Huricane 9200 S

0 komentar

ADSL Speedstream 5450

0 komentar

ADSL Speedstream 4200

0 komentar

ADSL Huawei

0 komentar

ADSL Prolink Huricane 9000 P

0 komentar

Browser apa yang paling BAGUS?? MOZILLA FIREFOX!!

13 Jan 2008 0 komentar
Bila anda bertanya-tanya, browser apa yang paling bagus untuk ber-internet RIA??.

Saya rekomendasikan MOZILLA FIREFOX.

Mengapa??

1. Firefox Mozilla sangat cocok dengan GOOGLE. Ditandai dengan adanya kerjasama antara FIREFOX dengan GOOGLE.

2. Firefox Mozilla sudah terdapat feature "multitab", sehingga akan memudahkan kita dalam browsing tanpa ada jendela2 baru yang terbuka. Kalau menggunakan Internet Explorer (versi 6), maka akan terbuka banyak IE yang artinya,.. consume much memory!

3. Firefox Mozilla sudah terdapat Pop-Up window control. Sehingga kita mudah mengatur, popup mana yang boleh, dan mana yang tidak.

4. Firefox Mozilla ada cookie managernya. Cookie disini akan membantu kita untuk membuka alamat web menjadi lebih cepat. (alamat web yang pernah kita buka sebelumnya).

5. Firefox Mozilla ada download manager yang sudah terintegrasi. Dengan feature ini, anda bisa download dengan aman dan nyaman, karena bila sewaktu-waktu download terputus, kita bisa langsung "melanjutkan" proses download tersebut tanpa harus mengulang dari awal lagi.

6. Firefox Mozilla ada image manager. Fitur ini berguna bila anda punya koneksi jelek, anda bisa mensetting untuk tidak menampilkan IMAGE dalam web yg anda buka, sehingga proses LOADING akan lebih cepat.

7. Firefox Mozilla GRATISSS!!! , download mudah dan install mudah.

8. Firefox Mozilla bisa anda jadikan alternatif bila browser anda (yg lain) ada masalah.

So,.. tunggu apa lagi,.. install Firefox Mozilla

DOWNLOAD

ADSL Aztech 305 UE

12 Jan 2008 0 komentar

ADSL Speedstream 5100

0 komentar

ADSL USB Modem

0 komentar

ADSL Jiesai JS-A8E

0 komentar

ADSL ZYXEL Prestige 2602 HW Series

0 komentar

ADSL Vigor

0 komentar

ADSL Modem PTI

0 komentar

ADSL ENZER

0 komentar

ADSL Alcatel

0 komentar

Pengantar Konsep dan Aplikasi TCP/IP pada Windows NT Server

0 komentar

Panduan Installasi VPN Client

0 komentar

Installation Guide Modem Kasda

11 Jan 2008 0 komentar
Setting Modem KASDA KD-318RG

KOMPUTER
1. IP Address harus dalam kondisi tanpa alamat (default)
Start – Setting – Control Panel – Network Connection – Local Area
Connection –Properties – Internet Protocol (TCP/IP) – Properties
2. Check koneksi Modem dengan PC
Start – Setting – Control Panel – Network Connection – Local Area
Connection – General
3. Bila kondisi baik maka akan terbaca : IP address yang valid
Start – Setting – Control Panel – Network Connection – Local Area
Connection – Support
4. Bila kondisi tidak sesuai dengan diatas maka berarti link
antara modem dan PC kurang bagus (Bad contact atau Card Ethernet
rusak) , setelah diperbaiki ulangi prosedur diatas

MODEM
1. Akses modem melalui Internet Explorer dengan mengakses IP
Gateway modem(192.168.1.1) seperti dalam kotak diatas
2. Username : admin ; Password : adslroot
3. Lihat pada Folder HOME, SubFolder HOME Operasional Status :
jika Hijau atau SHOWTIME maka modem telah terhubung dengan DSLAM,
jika masih berwarna kuning maka berarti modem masih belum Sikron
dengan DSLAM.
admin
adslroot
4. Configure modem : SubFolder QUICK CONFIGURATION Koneksi Kabel
ke Telkom
“OK”
Username & Password
“Not OK”
5. SUBMIT
6. Test Akses ke Internet, jika bagus maka setting harus disimpan
kedalam Modem secara permanen melalui Folder ADMIN, SubFolder
COMMIT&REBOOT tekan COMMIT
Koneksi Ke Internet
“ OK”
Tips : Sebaiknya Disimpan didalam Folder “My Documents/Setting
KASDA” hanya untuk mempermudah pencarian jika belum ada maka
perlu dibuat(Create) terlebih dahulu. Cara pembuatan berdasarkan
Prosedur Windows untuk create folder.

PROSEDUR BACK UP CONFIGURATION
Prosedur ini sangat bermanfaat untuk menyimpan konfigurasi
setting Modem & router yang sudah berjalan bagus. Prosedurnya
adalah :Admin – Backup/Restore Config – Save Config – Save –
My Documents/Setting* Kasda - Save

Perhatian :
Tidak boleh melakukan perubahan nama file. Karena akan
mengakibatkan file tersebut tidak dikenal sehingga tidak akan
dapat digunakan. File asli adalah commitedcfg.cfg

PROSEDUR RESTORE CONFIGURATION
Prosedur ini sangat bermanfaat untuk mengembalikan konfigurasi
settingke kondisi normal jika terjadi perubahan sehingga
menyebabkan seting berubah dan system tidak berjalan seperti
sebelumnya.Admin – Backup/Restore Config – Browse –
My Documents/SettingKasda – Klik Nama_file - Open - Upload
Setelah di Upload modem akan “Reset System”. Kemudian masuk
lagi kedalam Web Configurator dengan me-Refresh sehingga
tampil menu awal. Jika system sudah berjalan Nomal maka harus
dilakukan prosedur “Commit” seperti telah dibahas sebelumnya.
Tujuannya untuk menyompan secara permanent.Jika prosedur commit
ini tidak dilakukan maka suatu saat power supply dimatikan maka
konfigurasi akan hilang

Netgear DG834G ADSL Modem / Wireless Router Review

2 komentar
This review of the Netgear DG834G is really a follow on from our previous review of the non-wireless Netgear DG834. The big difference in the two models is that the DG834G has a built in 802.11g wireless interface, which is obvious from the presence of the wireless antenna. Both units run the same firmware and offer the same features, so rather than repeat ourselves, this review will concentrate on the wireless configuration and performance aspects of the Netgear DG834G router.

Netgear has been releasing many versions of firmware for its routers, the one used in this assessment of the DG834G is version 1.05.00. To summarise the routers features:

  • Firewall with control of inbound and outbound traffic

  • Universal Plug and Play (UPnP)

  • intrusion detection logging

  • denial of service protection

  • ability to block specific web sites

  • a schedule system to allow time based blocking in the firewall

  • 64/128 bit WEP encryption support

  • WPA wireless protection supported

  • Access control list for wireless devices

  • Wireless isolation to stop wireless devices talking to each other

Configuration of the DG834G

The set-up for this router is identical to the non-wireless model. The configuration to get the unit connected to an ADSL line can be carried out using either the wireless or wired connections. Most importantly, in common with other wireless routers, once running you can use any combination of wireless or wired connections. A common misapprehension is that you must leave one computer connected via Ethernet, this is not necessary, though having the option is useful in case you mess up the security settings.

The wireless of the DG834G is enabled by default when the router is shipped, with a default SSID of NETGEAR and is running in mixed mode (i.e. Support for both 802.11g and 802.11b networks). While this works out of the box, it is the least secure set-up possible, in that anyone with a computer and wireless network card within range of your router will be able to connect and use the Internet for free, but perhaps most importantly they would have access to the computers on your home network. We will now cover some of the security options available. Which ones will work best for you are very much down to the version of operating system and what wireless network card you are using.

In an ideal world you want to be running in WPA-PSK mode, with wireless isolation on and broadcast of SSID turned off.

Setting up WPA protection

Wi-Fi Protected Access commonly called WPA, has two main modes, WPA-PSK (Pre-Shared Key) which is what most home networks will use, and WPA-802.1x which uses a Radius server for the authentication - something that home users will simply not have. When you select the desired Security Option in the Netgears web configuration, it usefully shows the appropriate fields for you to alter. In the case of WPA-PSK there is only one field, the Network Key, which can be between 8 and 64 characters long. As with other passwords we recommend going for something that is a mixture of letters and digits and avoid obvious things like your houses address, family name etc.

WPA is a bit limited in its support, since currently only Windows XP has it, and that requires updates to be downloaded from Microsoft website here. A further limiting factor is that not all wireless network cards support WPA yet. We have used a Netgear WAG511 in this review. Windows XP supports several different standards for the security keys (AES, TKIP and WEP), but the Netgear router makes it simple by only supporting the one, TKIP. To configure our WAG511 to work with the Netgear settings we have should have the set-up shown below on our wireless network card properties.

The network key is exactly the same as what we entered in the Network key box on the routers web configuration. As the PC does not display the actual text entering the value correctly can take a couple of goes with long and complex keys. If you do lock yourself out of the router and do not have a way of connecting via Ethernet then the only way to get back into the router is to press the reset button and reconfigure the router again (this can be made simpler if before playing with wireless security you back up the settings of the router to a computer).

If you have got the key correct, then your computer should get issued in IP address and be able to access the router. There is no simple "your key is wrong" message in Windows, the Wireless Network Connection Status window will show you as Connected even if you get the security settings wrong. The only indication that something is wrong is the lack of an IP address.

Setting up WEP encryption

WEP is currently the most common wireless encryption, and while the 64bit version can be cracked, it is still a lot better than nothing. The 128-bit level of encryption is certainly secure enough for home users.

Two levels of WEP encyption exist. 64-bit encryption uses 10 hexadecimal digits. A hexadecimal digit is A-F and 0-9. The 64-bit encryption is relatively secure, but can be broken if someone has the time to do it. So it will suffice for most home LANs, but 128-bit is recommended just in case you have a hacker living across the street. 128-bit encryption uses more digits to make it harder to crack the key, 26 digits in fact, which can make typing it in correctly much harder. The upside is that a key this long is difficult to break, though not totally impossible. Whilst the router has space for four keys you only need to use one. Their is space for four keys, so you can store four preset ones, and then easily alter the key used by your network at anytime.

The settings in Windows XP for WEP are shown above, the network key was a1b2c3d4e5 as shown in the Netgear screenshot. It is often best to use an easily typed key when initially setting up any of the security options, and switch to a more complex one once you know your network cards and router are working. The set-up for 128-bit WEP is the same, just your key should be 26 hexadecimal (0..9, A..F) characters long, and helpfully the Netgear expands the size of the key fields appropriately when 128-bit is selected.

Other wireless security/set-up options

The router offers some other ways of helping to secure your network. The simplest of these is the ability to turn off the wireless side of the router totally. Hiding the SSID can help to keep the very casual passerby out of your network, though some people have found that some wireless network cards do not work very well if the SSID is hidden - the downside to hiding the SSID is that you need to manually specify it on any of the machines you want to actually connect to the network.

Wireless Isolation is a fairly rare feature on home based routers. When switched on, it stops two computers on the wireless network from seeing each other, but still allows you to see computers on the wired network. An option to isolate the wireless users from the wired network also would be welcome.

Perhaps the most useful extra wireless option is the ability to set-up an access control list. This is simply a list of machines that you have defined as being allowed to access the Internet.

The DG834G makes the access control set-up as simple as possible, by displaying which MAC addresses it can see. The MAC address is a unique identifier that all network devices are given. It can be found either by using the list of available Wireless stations as shown above, or from your computer by using the ipconfig /all command in a DOS command prompt window as shown below.

Performance

The Netgear DG834G has had a chequered performance history, it has had numerous firmware upgrades but none seem to have vastly improved the wireless throughput which is lower than many other units on the market as shown below.

Wireless Performance Measurements

Wireless device

Time for 229MB file copy (seconds)

Average transfer rate (Mega bits per second)

Belkin F5D7630UK4A

134

13.67Mbps

BT Voyager 2000

387

4.73Mbps

Buffalo WLI-CD-G54

98

18.63Mbps

Linksys WAG-54G

100

18.32Mbps

Linksys WRT54G

107

17.1Mbps

Netgear DG834G

194

9.44Mbps

U.S.Robotics 9106

128

14.31Mbps

The other main performance aspect that concerns people with wireless router hardware is the range of the kit, in the past we have measured the ability for reviewed hardware to work at a set of increasing distances in a mixture of indoors and outdoors environments. We have decided on a simpler and hopefully more subjective approach by using the signal meter of the wireless card in a Compaq IPAQ. The routers are placed in the same location and same orientation to increase reproducibility, and rather than measuring across open ground we are measuring through a number of brick walls.

Wireless router percentage of detectable signal

Router

1st Wall

2nd Wall

4th Wall

Belkin F5D7630UK4A

80%

13%

0%

BT 1250 (2Wire)

100%

54%

26%

Linksys WAG-54G

93%

53%

6%

Linksys WRT54G

93%

26%

0%

Netgear DG834G

100%

60%

26%

U.S Robotics 9106

75%

20%

0%

Wall 1 comprises double brick construction with bathroom tiles

Wall 2 comprises of double brick construction with kitchen tiles

Wall 4 is the next measurable point, due to an old coal bunker between walls 3 and 4.

The total distance between the first and last measuring point is around 6m and shows the problems that can exist in a brick building when using wireless. Therefore the common advice of locating the wireless router centrally is very important if you want good coverage.

After the DG834Gs poor showing in the throughput stakes it was nice to see it manage to get a usable signal through four walls. The version 1.05 firmware is also much more stable, with the wireless side of the router running for 4 or 5 days without it dropping. Some other units do manage longer, but even when the Netgear did drop the signal it would reconnect automatically.

The non-wireless performance is on a par with the other kit tested, online gaming works fine with stable latency, and downloads fly along as one would expect. If you stress the router heavily it can become a bit sluggish to respond. Peer to peer applications like Bit Torrent may cause problems for others sharing the connection, though at least it does keep working unlike some that will just grind to a halt under heavy loads. Online gaming with the latest firmware is fine, the latency is low and stable, some earlier versions of the firmware did have higher than usual latency though.

One nice addition with the latest firmware in this router is that the ADSL attenuation and noise margin figures are available on the statistics page. The line attenuation is possibly reading about 2-3dB lower than would normally be expected on the test line, so that should be bourne in mind when using the figures. This variation in the attenuation figures between routers means you should not really use your own router figures to predict your ability to receive 1Mbps and 2Mbps services. The key numbers to watch really are the noise margins which should stay reasonably static, if you see these varying by 10dB or more then you may have a poor connection, or a source of interference locally.

If you are unfortunate and have a line that has high attenuation and low noise margins, the DG834 family is at least very quick at reconnecting if the ADSL signal drops, taking around 30 seconds to reconnect and authenticate you again. Some units can take upto a couple of minutes to do this, for example the USR 9106 with its 2.1 firmware.

Conclusions

The big question really is, is it worth the money? Well looking at the pricing in the online stores which is around £99 with a bundled 802.11G wireless card, the unit offers great value for money, and now many of the vices of the earlier models are fixed it is quite a nice device to use. The DG834G lacks the advanced functionality of units like the Vigor 2600G, but offers more features than say the U.S.Robotics 9106. It will work with a block of static IPs from the ISP, but people are reporting unexpected behaviour from the firewall, another area the Vigor 2600G wins.

This review has been done over a very extended period of time, around six months, and has seen numerous firmware upgrades. None of these appear to have solved all problems for all people, which is a shame. The review unit does appear stable, but there are reports of others finding different versions of firmware more stable. Interestingly this is not just linked to the Netgear units, long term stability appears to be something that a lot of 802.11g kit has yet to fully resolve

Billion Bipac 5100S ADSL modem/router review

9 Jan 2008 0 komentar

The Billion Bipac 5100S is sold in the UK by http://www.adslguide.org.uk/jump.asp?url=http://www.solwise.co.uk, and as well as being pocket sized, it is a cheap one port ADSL modem/router. The unit is ideal for people who have just the one computer they want to use with ADSL and prefer the connection stability and security even a simple router can offer. Alternatively it is quite happy being used connected to an Ethernet switch running networks of more than one computer.

The router itself has a built in ADSL modem and NAT functionality, and as of November 2004 retails for £40.89 including VAT. The unit can be used on either a static or dynamic single IP address ADSL account, or the NAT function can be disabled for people who have a block of static IP addresses. The router has UPnP, which is seeing an upsurge in use again now that applications like Bit Torrent support it. Also for home workers, it has support for VPN Passthrough. The firewall relies heavily on the basic functionality of NAT, but you can block a few limited services to increase the security.

What you get for your money

The picture below gives a real idea of the small size of this router, it measures just 18.5cm x 12.7cm x 4.7cm. It comes with an RJ11 lead to connect you to your ADSL micro-filter, and a network cable to connect to a single computer. The Power supply is smaller than the usual power brick, and should fit very well into most power strips; the supply to the router is 9V AC 1Amp.

A short set-up booklet from Billion is included, and the CD includes a full manual covering all the basic and advanced features of the unit. To make life simpler, Solwise include a supplementary sheet with screen shots of the settings for a BT and a Kingston Communications phone line.

The LEDs on the front of the router, are large and bright, with their purpose as follows:

      1. PWR - the router has power
      2. SYS - the router is booted and running
      3. LAN - an active Ethernet connection is connected, flashes to indicate activity
      4. ADSL - lit once the router has synced to the ADSL line
      5. PPP - lit once the router has successfully authenticated the supplied username and password

The rear of the router is pretty simple, with just four features:

      1. RJ11 socket for the ADSL line
      2. RJ45 Ethernet socket
      3. Recessed reset button
      4. Power input socket

One small oddity worth mentioning is that when using a hooded RJ45 cable, the bottom lip of the case can make it hard to unplug the cable. A very minor thing, but be careful when unplugging any network leads to avoid damaging the RJ45 plug or socket. The reset button appears to work two ways, a short press (less than three seconds) just reboots the unit, holding in for around six seconds resets the machine to its factory defaults.

Basic Configuration

The router is configured pretty much like all the others on the market. First connecting an Ethernet cable between your computer and the router, waiting for an IP address to be assigned by DHCP (the default IP range is 192.168.1.1 to 192.168.1.254), and then accessing the web set-up on the router at http://192.168.1.254. It does not matter if your ADSL line is plugged in or not at this stage, you can configure the router in anticipation of your ADSL line being activated, so you can use it as soon as possible after activation.

The screenshot above shows what options you have when you first connect to the router, of course it is password protected, and to get to this point you will have needed to enter admin for the username and admin for the password when prompted. The configuration is fairly simple; just click the Wizard Setup link shown in the screenshot above, to be guided through the options that need changing.

The first step is to check the ISP parameters, which should be set as default to the values above, so click Next to continue to the next step.

The next stage is to enter your ISP assigned username and password. We have shown one of the BT test accounts - the password for this login can be blank, or any old text. If you have a static IP address we still recommend leaving 'Obtain an IP Address Automatically' set on this page, just in case your ISP told you the wrong IP address. Static IP addresses are controlled by the ISPs hardware, which is simply told to keep handing the same IP address out for a specific account name.

It is best to leave the connection setting marked as 'Nailed-Up Connection'. This means no matter how long you leave your connection idle, the router will keep the connection open. If you want, you can switch to letting the router only connect on demand, but this can mean a few seconds delay if it does disconnect when you first request a web page again. The Network Address Translation field should be left at 'SUA Only' for the majority of users. An explanation of the NAT modes is shown below:

Step three in the setup, displays all the settings you have entered, so you can review them and check you have got things correct. For people who want to use the router on a different LAN IP range, which is entirely optional, there is a button to take you to the LAN IP configuration pages.

If all is well, you should see the PPP light come on a short while after pressing the Save Settings button. You can double check the status by looking at the System Status under the Maintenance menu. An example using the bt_test@startup_domain login is shown below:

The show statistics button provides a wealth of other information, and is a pop-up that refreshes every five seconds by default. Unusually it also tells you the CPU load of the router, so if you are using a very busy network you can monitor how busy the routers processor is, as well as the speeds of the ADSL line.

Advanced Configuration

The 5100S is not limited to just getting you online, it does have further options that allow you to configure services to be visible behind the firewall functionality of the router. You may need further configuration, commonly called port forwarding, for some online games, peer to peer applications, and running things like a web server.

Under the NAT menu item for the router is the screen shown below. Normally most people will be using the SUA Only option, and to configure a virtual server you would click the 'Edit Details' link. Selecting None would turn NAT off, which means you would have no connection unless you are provided with a block of static IP addresses. The Full Feature option is what is commonly known as Multi-NAT, where multiple public IP addresses are translated to multiple private LAN IP addresses.

Once you have clicked the 'Edit Details' link, the second screen is shown which lets you see what rules you have configured already, and add additional rules. Eleven rules can be entered, and fortunately with such a small amount available in the web interface, you can specify a port range. For example if you wanted to forward ports 6881 to 6999 to the computer with the LAN IP address of 192.168.0.10, you would enter 6881 as the Start Port No. and 6999 as the End Port No. and the IP address as 192.168.0.200. Obviously you need to click Save for the settings to be stored. Unlike some other routers, when you save settings on the 5100S, it does not totally reboot the router, it appears to save settings very fast, and with minimal interruption to the other computers on a network.

Rule 1 is slightly different to the others. It would normally be termed as the DMZ option. Entering an IP address for Rule 1 means that all incoming unsolicited traffic would be directed to the computer at that IP address. This can prove useful if you run out of rules, and need to get something like an X-Box or PlayStation 2 online.

The firewall options are very basic, but by their nature therefore very easy to use. You have just six options as shown above, which allow you to block certain types of traffic in an incoming direction.

For those people with a dynamic IP address from their ISP, the inclusion of support for DynDNS is useful, since this allows you to use a domain name to direct people to any services you are running. This avoids the need to keep telling people about your change in IP address.

The router does support UPnP, which is actually turned off by default. Two levels are supported, the first check box will simply let you see the Internet Gateway icon, and observe the statistics, and tell you the router is connected. The second option is the one to select if you want applications like Windows Messenger and Bit Torrent to be able to open and close ports automatically.

There is a command line interface available via telnet, which reveals a number of options including support for SNMP. A very simple and useful command is shown above, which reboots the router for you. The presence of a telnet interface is not critical, but very often there are features in a router only available via the command line interface.

Performance

The unit is very small, but this hides what appears to be a very stable little router. It may not have all the features of things like the more expensive Speed Touch 530, but many people have no need for those features. During the course of the review, the router was happy serving content for a web server, and being used for fairly large amounts of web browsing.

Latency wise the unit appears pretty much standard, which is really where most routers are these days. So for gamers there is often little difference between units. The difference is more about reliability during game play, which the 5100S seems to have.

Running some speed tests showed good results, varying around the same average for the ADSL line used for the reviews, averaging at around 940kbps downstream and 252kbps upstream. The diagnostics section of the routers web interface shows the attentuation and other parameters of the ADSL line.

Conclusion

Small but perfectly formed comes to mind. With its size you almost expect it to run off a couple of AA batteries. For people who are looking for a first router, the unit seems ideal as it is cheap and easy to set-up. Additionally, Solwise are very good in providing that extra bit of documentation, and a lot more support than the various PC component box shifters.

The small number of port forwarding rules is a bit of a concern, but with ranges allowed most people should be fine. Having UPnP is useful, as this simplifies issues like port forwarding for novice users, and for those with security concerns, it is easy to disable the UPnP.

The presence of a telnet interface is perhaps a bit beyond your novice router user, but it will give those keen to learn more, something to get their teeth into.

Asus 6030VI Wireless Review (Discontinued)

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The 6030VI is the larger brother of the Asus 6000EV, with the inclusion of an 802.11b wireless access point and a 4 port 10/100Mbps switching hub and of course a full G.DMT and PPPoA compliant ADSL modem. The modem/router supports both NAT and NON-NAT configurations and the wireless side supports WEP at 64bit and 128bit encryption. The router is available from http://www.adslguide.org.uk/jump.asp?url=http://www.solwise.co.uk/ with a retail price including VAT of £340 and £9.95 postage and packing. Whilst the price seems high - consider the price of a Asus 6000EV plus an access point and a 4 port 10/100 hub and there isn't much difference.

The picture above shows the router with the kit it arrives with, the straight Ethernet CAT-5 cable isn't shown, and the manuals were left out of the picture. You can see it has two antenna for the 802.11b - the fixings for these rotate allowing you to position them to get the best reception possible. Running through the ports on the back of the router you will see (from left to right) first antenna port, RJ11 socket for DSL line, reset switch - the switch performs a simple off/on not a full reset of the router, RS232 console port, 4 10/100 Ethernet ports, DC power connector and lastly the second antenna socket.

Around on the front of the router, you have 4 activity LED's for the LAN ports, power LED, Wireless LAN present LED, Status LED, Line activity LED and a test LED. This bank of LED's makes for one of the brightest looking routers I've seen, and combined with the styling it is a very noticeable device. One useful note about the case is that it has slots to allow you to wall mount the router using two screws.

For a device the size it is ( 27cm width, 19cm deep, 4.5cm high ) it is fairly light at 750g, the power brick is a nice size also, fitting into the width of a standard plug therefore fitting into 4 way extensions easily and only weighs 210g.

Configuration

The router comes with a set of quick setup instructions which cover getting the device up and running. The first stage as with all Ethernet devices is a simple walkthrough to ensure your network card is setup correctly, the basic setup involving assigning your computer an IP address e.g. 192.168.1.2, and a gateway IP address of 192.168.1.1 which is the IP address of the router in it's default configuration. The best advice when setting any router up for the first time is to go with it's default IP configuration and make sure everything works before altering any IP settings. The Asus allows you to specify whatever IP you want for the router, so once you've checked it works it is relatively simple to integrate into an existing LAN.

Once you have the power and network leads connected from router to the PC, and a link light showing, simply open http://192.168.1.1/ in a web browser and you will be prompted for the router password (this is different to your ADSL account password, the default password is in the documentation). If your computer attempts to dial a connection when opening http://192.168.1.1/, you need to setup your browser to not dial a network connection, this will make it look across any local LAN before attempting to dial out. The Quick setup guide takes you through setting up a channel and gives the basic settings ( a set of screenshots from a working configuration can be seen at http://www.adslguide.org.uk/jump.asp?url=http://www.farina1.com/6030). For the die-hards there is also a console interface and telnet interface to the router - no RS232 console lead is supplied but a suitable one can be ordered from http://www.adslguide.org.uk/jump.asp?url=http://www.solwise.co.uk/ for £3.99.

The web configuration is fairly simple and straight forward. It's best to leave the wireless LAN configuration alone until you've got the router online and running, the channel setup that was used during the review is shown below:

Most people will want the 'Startup' option set to 'Enable'. This means as soon as the router switches on it will attempt to login for you, i.e. maintains a 24/7 connection. DoD (Dial on Demand) should be disabled for most people, if you leave DoD enabled the router will only connect when it detects traffic trying to get to out on the Internet, which can obviously delay the first few webpages. NAT should be enabled, if you are on a single IP service - I was unable to test a NON-NAT setup as I only have a single IP service. Once you commit the configuration changes to the router it will tell when they are saved and whether you need to restart for the changes to take effect. To restart the router either press the reset switch or drop the power for a second or two.

Some notes on the configuration: A couple of times, I was unable to see or connect to the router when setting up my LAN to use it, turned out one of my PC's was switching to 100Mbps, but some of them have only 10Mbps cards and thus weren't seeing the router, so it appears the 4 ports are not fully independent, i.e. either all 10Mbps or all 100Mbps. It's also worth mentioning DNS configuration, the router supports DNS relay and auto discovery of DNS servers, it's been found that using the DNS relay on the 6000 and 6030 can be a little flaky, how it exhibited itself was that the occasional webpage required a second attempt to view it. The solution is to set the computers TCP/IP configuration so that rather than the routers IP in the DNS fields, add the IP addresses of your ISP's DNS servers.

Advanced Configuration

Once you've got a wired computer up and running out to the internet, it's time to play with the wireless segment. An 802.11b sub menu exists for this and comprises 3 parts, basic setup to specify which channel and a network name, an advanced setup letting you fiddle with the 802.11b parameters and the WEP configuration to provide some security to the wireless LAN ( so you can ensure only people you want on the LAN will be on it ). The wireless LAN can run in two modes, firstly on the same IP range as the LAN ports, or a routed network which is a different IP range, the choice is yours.

The router supports NAT configuration, so that you can forward specific ports to software running behind the NAT router, the forwarding will allow either single ports or ranges of TCP/UDP ports to be forwarded and in addition the router has support to allow Netmeeting to work, i.e. a H323 protocol helper. Unfortunately at this time there is no support for any protocols other than TCP or UDP so VPN's that need protocol 47 forwarding wont be supported.

When configuring the port forwarding, one thing that caught me out the first time was when you click submit to add the port to the list, but it's not actually enabled until you select 'Save' in the drop down and click submit to commit the changes into the router. If using the wireless LAN in bridged mode you can port forward to a PC over the 802.11b network as well.

Performance

The performance of the device was just as one would expect, i.e. gave me first hop pings around 20ms and steady 60KB/sec downloads - even across the wireless segment the downloads and ping seemed to be no different than been connected via a cable. The normal update/refresh of the Counter-Strike server list was fine, noticed a slightly increased tendency for links to require a double click but a lot better than the SpeedTouch Pro which hangs up when doing this. In terms of uptime of the router I cant fault it - it was in use for a solid 2-3 weeks and ran 24/7, the case got a little warm but not uncomfortably so.

One small blip in the performance was that when using fairly large websites like ADSLguide's forum and a user on another PC access's a site ( Hotmail seemed particularly affected ) they sometimes had trouble getting to the site, a single retry and all was well, this suggests it was all linked to the use of the DNS relay in the router, by specifying the DNS IP address's on each PC directly the situation was helped. The review setup was either 4 PC's with one on the wireless LAN, and then for around a week the configuration was to 2 PC's on the wireless segment and 1 wired up PC.

Verdict

At first sight the device looks over priced, but for those requiring a neat setup with minimal wiring and boxes it works very well and is just about good value for money. Cheaper combinations can be arrived at, but you have the problem of configuring two different pieces of kit, two power supplies.

The one large bonus of moving to a wireless configuration is that you can relocate the PC's to reduce noise level, and using a laptop in front of TV, rather than hiding away in the back room is possible. Compared to using a normal ADSL modem/router plus an additional access point, the setup was a lot easier. In comparison to my normal peer to peer wireless setup I use, the ability to install the antenna improved the reception markedly, i.e. went from 1-2 bars to a full 3-4 bars on the laptops signal meter when used through 3 or 4 brick walls.

Compared to most other modem/routers it is very stylish, technically it cant be faulted, OK it's not quite as feature packed as the IX66 but with the cost of wireless network cards falling an all in one box is quite attractive - particularly as you could site the router in an 'out of the way' location and avoid having to run phone/network cables around a newly decorated house perhaps

Istilah - istilah Penting ADSL

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ADSL (Asymmetric Digital Suscriber Line) - Adalah sebuah teknologi DSL yang menyalurkan data lebih cepat untuk downstream dari pada upstream. Kecepatan downstream maksimal adalah 8MBps sementara upstream tercepat adalah 640Kbps. Koneksi ADSL baik hingga jarak sekitar 5Km dari STO terdekat melalui kabel telephone tembaga.

Bandwidth - Lebarnya sebuah kanal komunikasi. diukur dalam bit per detik(digital bps) atau siklus per detik (analog Hertz). Angka mewakili kapasitas dalam menangani transmisi data secara simultan. Semakin besar angka bandwidth, semakin banyak informasi yang bisa disalurkan dalam satu hitungan waktu.

Broadband - ditujukan pada tansmisi signal dimana sebuah medium seperti tembaga atau kabel optic membawa beberapa kanal, biasanya membawa beberap frekwensi atau gelombang divisi multiplexing. Bandwidth ini memungkinkan integrasi suara, vidoe dan data dibawa dalam satu medium transmisi. DSL adalah salah satu skema transmisi broadband.

CPE (Customer Premises Equipment) - Peralatan networking seperti workstation, router, POTS splitter, dll. yang dipasang pada pelanggan dan dikoneksi ke peralatan networking jasa telekomunikasi.

Downstream - Merujuk pada data yang dikirim dari STO ke pelanggan. Dalam DSL adalah komunikasi dari network ke tempat pelanggan. Lawan dari Downstream adalah upstream yang berarti aliran data dari pelanggan ke STO/network.

DSLAM (Digital Subscriber Line Acces Multiplexer) - Sebuah peralatan network yang dipasang pada STO. Alat ini menerima signal dari pelanggan dan kemudian menyambung signal tersebut ke jaringan hubungan cepat tersambung (high speed backbone line).

Firewall - Kombinasi antara software dan hardware yang menfilter atau membatasi traffic dari koneksi umum. Firewall akan membatasi sebagian dari network pribadi untuk tidak bisa diakses oleh umum. Ia akan membatasi atau memproteksi akses yang tidak memiliki izin ataupun tidak dikenal.

Qos (Quality of Service) - Biasanya sebuah ISP akan menawarkan sebuah perjanjian service, yang mana berarti " Kami akan melakukan yang terbaik tapi bukan jaminan", sebaliknya QoS bukan berarti " kami menjamin Anda untuk mendapatkan x bandwidth"

VPN (Virtual Private Network) - Sebuah network yang dibangun dengan menggunakan sambungan umum untuk menghubungi pemakai (nodes). Sebagai contoh, beberapa komputer dimungkinkan tercipta sebuah networking dengan menggunakan internet sebagai medium transportasi data. Komputer ini akan menggunakan enkripsi dan mekanisme keamanan lain untuk menjamin bahwa hanya orang yang diberi autorisasi yang bisa akses ke dalam network tersebut dan juga menjamin data tidak disusupi oleh pihak lain.

SMTP Server - Merupakan media transmisi untuk pengiriman sebuah email. Menggunakan port 25, dan biasanya terpasang firewall untuk memfilter data yang lewat seperti Spamming, virus, spyware, phising, sniffing dan lain-lain.

POP3 Server - Media penyimpanan Email dan jalur penerimaan Mail Client dengan port 110 seperti Outlook dan lain sebagainya.


Jenis - jenis DSL

DSL (Digital Subscriber Line) menggunakan jaringan tembaga telephone biasa untuk mengirimkan data pada kecepatan yang tinggi. Hanya sebagian dari frequensi yang tersedia pada kabel tersebut yang digunakan. DSL membagi frequensi tinggi untuk data dan frequensi rendah untuk suara dan fax. Kecepatan maksimum yang tersedia tergantung dengan jarak tempat installasi dengan STO Telkom terdekat, kualitas jaringan dan jenis DSL yang diminta. Sering disebut xDSL, karena adanya berbagai jenis DSL yang tersedia. Antara Lain: